Monday, April 4, 2011

Travel Delays - Hangin' Out Where it's Safest


I was planning on taking the overnight train up to Dinajpur tomorrow, but I have had a change of plans.  I'll still go, but it will have to wait a bit. 

Bangladesh is having a country-wide strike (aka 'Hartal') tomorrow.  The UN and the US government has sent out advisories that travel should be avoided. 

At the moment I am in Dhaka.  I had planned on taking the overnight train into Dinajpur, it leaves (well, it left) at 8pm and arrives at about 6am.  I like overnights because it's nicer to sleep through most of the long journey and wake up there than to have to bump around and occupy myself for 10 hours while I wait to arrive! 

However, I decided to wait.

The strike isn't happening today, so things would have been safe to travel - tomorrow most big things will shut down, no buses, most offices will close, basically it sounds like most of the city stops, and the same happens across the country.  Call me crazy, but I figured I would rather be in a city that is familiar to me when something like this was going on, rather than arriving bright and early to disarray in an unfamiliar one without knowing which areas were safe and which weren't. 

So, I wanted to know more about WHY there is a strike going on, and what exactly a "hartal" was.  As usual I googled hartal and followed a Wiki link - it suggests that hartals are employed in this end of the world (including India, Sri Lanka, and Pakistan with Bangladesh) when the people don't like a decision the government has made.

This particular strike is being called for by the Islamic Law Implementation Committee (ILIC) protesting the National Women Development Policy (NWDP) 2011, and a few other things the government did back in March. 

I don't know much about Islam, about Muslim belief systems or legal systems, but being in a country that is primarily Muslim I am trying to learn.  I've actually even started reading the Qua'ran because I'd like to understand more about it all - I've read the Book of Mormon, the Bible, and a few other religious books, so why not the Qua'ran?  More on that another time perhaps.

Back to the strike.  The NWDP was started back in the late 90s attempting to give women in Bangladesh more rights - it was approved in early March of this year.   There is controversy (if I am understanding things correctly) from some of the Islamic groups because if it were law, it would interfere with Muslim family law (which I have no understanding of), and contradicts some of the teachings of the Qua'ran.  I pretend no knowledge in this area and therefore don't have an opinion yet, however, so I'm not about to go off at the mouth over it in a public forum. 

However, the part I don't understand, is that it is not LAW, it is a pledge by the government, a policy to further the rights women have in the country, so I'm not exactly sure why the strike is happening - the only thing that comes to mind is that there could be a fear for the lines of "progress" (my word, I think improving women's rights here WOULD be progress) that could be opened if indeed the government were successful in making changes that DID lead to new laws giving women more rights in the country.
  In an article in the Daily Star...
"The policy upholds the rights of all women irrespective of their religions. Shirin Sharmin also said they would draw a national action plan based on this policy which will, “Provide women with full control over their right to land, earned property, health, education, training, information, inheritance, credit, technology and opportunity to earn… And enact necessary new laws to put these rights into practice."

ILIC chairman Mufti Fazlul Haque Amini...called the general strike on Mar 8 protesting the women's policy, the ban on fatwa by the High Court and the education policy."  [Full story link here]
So the issues for the ILIC are (1) the women's policy, (2) the High Court's ban on fatwa, and (3) the education policy.

"Wait a minutes, you lost me... what the heck is fatwa?" you ask?  Don't worry, I googled that too because I had no idea, so bear with me. 


Fatwa is an Islamic religious ruling (scholarly opinion, some would say) that is pronounced by recognized religious authorities in Islam.  It is not a law, as I understand it, but is meant to be read/heard and considered, and then you are to choose whether or not you support it/follow it or not as a Muslim, a follower of Islam.  It is your personal choice.

Sometimes they can be extremist in nature (like when Salmon Rushdie wrote Satanic Verses, Ayatollah Kohmeini (Iran's highest ranking political and religious authority at the time) issued a fatwa that actually ordered Rushdie and everyone associated with the book to be killed - you can look it up, I'm not trying to start any fights here; I was shocked by it myself because I had no idea there were public orders to KILL people - naive, naive, naive. 

[Read the wiki article here and decide for yourself what you think - there are lots of additional sources at the bottom of the article if you're interested.]

The fatwa remains in place today... The Iranian government supported the fatwa for almost 10 years before the President spoke against it, and it's apparently here to stay since the Ayatollah who issued it died.  Rushdie's translators in different countries were hurt of killed in response: craziness for this girl, that just all blew me away!!! Perhaps because the book was written in '88 and the fatwa issued in '89 and I was 12 at the time I didn't know any of this went on, but I'm making up for it now with the shock value... wow...

I want to note... I want so much to share the things I love about this country, to put into the light things that people never hear about in news stories, things that would make hearts glad and spirits smile, but tonight I'm in heartbreak about many things, so many sad things that continue to happen even today in the country, things that I just can't make room to understand or even begin to justify.

Bangladesh's government declared fatwas to be illegal last year (yay Bangladesh!), but there is another law, Islamic Sharia law (I am very confused and have had overload and will not be looking up anymore tonight) that people still use to make these more extremist fatwa pronouncements.  I dont' understand the system, so I can only speak to my dismay at their outcomes, their consequences, and I cannot speak to their cause or origin.

In looking for more information on all of this tonight I just read a story where in a 14-year old girl who was raped by her 40-year old married cousin was sentenced by fatwa (in February of this year) to a public lashing: 100 whip lashes - the victim, a child, ordered punished, and she died in hospital from the severity of her injuries before the punishment was finished; her rapist was sentenced to the same, but he "escaped to parts unknown." 

Truly, I want to throw up.  

I don't know if it was widely known at the time because I wasn't here.  I don't know if anyone tried to stop it from happening before it did.  I don't know if the whole country knew about it, or if they didn't hear about it until after it happened, I don't understand Sharia.  I don't know if anyone tried to save her, and I can't help but cry now for her. 

The Bangladeshi High Court is apparently looking to punish the people responsible, but I have yet to find out what came of it.  Kassandra said she was aware of it at the time, but I didn't ask for details, she said only that it was awful.  It is still awful.

Some things make me more grateful than others to have been born into the country, family, and ideological systems that I was.  So grateful.

Ok, attempting to move on... I got carried away because I was so shocked about the Rushdie ruling, and then worse by the child who died because of a community's fatwa, but I meant only to explain what it was.

It seems when I looked it up that most often fatwas seem to be religious opinions meant to govern how to live your life as a Muslim best in accordance with the Qu'aran, and they're not public death warrants on people.  The thing is that it seems that since the High Court in Bangladesh banned fatwas not everyone is happy about that. 

There is an AWFUL lot to learn being in a Muslim country...



So, what I started the night wanting to tell you was only that I am in Dhaka, I am safe and sound in the diplomatic area, happy and chilling out in my apartment.  I had a great day today thanks to 2 super friends at home and away, and tomorrow you will find me far from any news that is unlikely to even hit the fan internationally tomorrow.


In the event that there IS something about it on the news, you can just know I've kept myself safe and sound far from the "action," if there is any... the farthest I'll be going tomorrow is to the grocery store for some snacks on the train the next day - no worries!


PS - See, I make decisions in the interest of my safety, not just in the interest of my curiosity and my desire to move around and see stuff!

3 comments:

  1. SIGH!!! I went through the same thing when I moved to a Kuwait. So I feel your pain and heartbreak. Women in Kuwait only got the right to vote in the last 10 or so years. Salman Rushdie's book is banned from Kuwait and if you are caught bringing it in to the country.. last I heard it's jail time! There are so many cases here of the mistreatment of women, the abuse of children and due to the religious laws/oaths/outlooks some of it is overlooked a great deal.
    However, in saying that Kuwait has come a long way and although they still follow Islamic principles they do not rely on Shai'ra law... Saudi is a whole other playing field. If you get a chance... or WHEN YOU VISIT!!! You should read the Princess trilogy about the Saudi princess and her life and fight for womans rights in Saudi.
    Don't let your heart be tainted to much but the extremist views, Islam is a beautiful religion that at the heart and was born to breed tolerance of others, a modest life, giving back to the community having a belief in a higher power of god. What all religions should be about really!!
    Stay safe and happy trails and trials!
    x

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks Deana,

    You know, when I lived in Canada so far removed from hearing news like that, where everyone's rights mean something (in the majority of cases) I'd hear these stories and think "how terrible, wow", but it would mostly end there - I was totally removed in heart and mind after the initial shock/outrage.

    It is much harder to be living so close to something like this and know that you can't change it, that it isn't yours to change, only to try and understand, and remember that it isn't everyone and everywhere.

    There are parts of Bangladesh (some of the tribes) where women lead the family, control the household, and hold the money. Men have told me, "if I want to buy something at the market I have to ask my wife for the money", or "if my mother won't agree to the decision, in the end I have to follow her will."

    Women are in politics here (due to the whole dynasty-based system as opposed to because they were voted in), and there are 50% women in the univiersities (in many programs). There are rights here, but they coexist along some barbaric and hateful laws and rules that belong to religious clerics and followers rather than the country's governmental practices.

    I have met many people already who have shown me the beauty and love of Islam. I don't hold these practices and beliefs against Islam anymore than I could hold some of the horrible history of the Catholic church against Christianity - I know that it's generally one man or one group's interpretation (misinterpretation, I want to say) of something that started as good, and just, kind and loving. It's the same reason I'm reading the Qua'ran, and the same reason I hope to stumble into some level-headed Bengali English-speaker here that could take the time to go through it with me and answer my questions so I could understand it better; if I don't find it here I plan to look into it when I go home.

    I thought of you in Kuwait as I was thinking about life in a Muslim country, and appreciate you making time to leave me a note (which was beautifully written) that reminds me about all the good that is behind it... I know it's here too, or I couldn't bear to be here.

    Stay safe and happy!
    S.

    ReplyDelete
  3. hi there...sorry for the random message, but i was wondering if i could ask you some questions about teaching english in korea. my e-mail is annerthoughts@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete

I'd love to hear your thoughts!

My to-do List (May it Continue to Grow!)

Take a 'real' Korean class (check!)

Spend a weekend in the country (check!)

Try some kind of art class (maybe painting?)

Take the ferry to a farming island and hang out for a weekend minbak-style in the summer

Check out some kind of art exhibit (check!)

Go to Everland and see the animal safari

Go to Caribbean Bay in the summer

Take a martial art for 6 months consecutively

Cliff dive over near ChiriSan, if I can find the spot

Practice yoga for 3 months (in a class maybe?) (check!)

Take a digital photography course

Spend my weekends doing stuff (check!)

Make Korean friends (check!)

Visit JeJu Island

Do the Vagina Monologues again

Go to the fun concerts that visit (check!)

Work as a counselor in one of the schools

Reconnect with old friends (check!)

Join a hiking/touring group and do stuff (check!)

Let go of my obsessiong w/converting KRW to CAD (check!)

Do a 5km run just for the fun of it

See the Broadway shows that visit

Climb a mountain (check!)

Go to the mud festival in July (check!)

Keep in touch regularly with friends and family back at home

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